What is Iso E Super?
Iso E Super is a synthetic molecule that belongs to the family of molecules known as ambergris, which is a waxy, greyish substance that is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. Ambergris is highly prized in the perfume industry, but due to its rarity and ethical concerns, synthetic alternatives have been developed, such as Ambroxan.
Iso E Super was first synthesized by the International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) company in 1973, as part of their ongoing research into new fragrance molecules, quite the opposite to the traditional Indian perfume style. It is a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly sweet, woody, and amber-like scent. Iso E Super is commonly used as a fixative in fragrances, meaning it helps to prolong the scent of other fragrance notes and prevent them from evaporating too quickly. Interestingly, some are not able to smell the molecule at all, while others can smell it, but on other days they can’t. And some can smell it very good. In the perfume pyramid Iso E Super belongs to the heart notes.
Why is Iso E Super So Popular?
Iso E Super has become a popular ingredient in many fragrances because of its unique properties and because of the hype of Escentric Molecules and layering. It has a very subtle scent on its own, which means that it can be used in fragrances without overpowering other fragrance notes, while giving a brightening effect. Iso E Super has a remarkable ability to enhance and amplify other fragrance notes, making them more noticeable and letting them shine in another light.
How Does Iso E Super Work?
Iso E Super works by interacting with the olfactory receptors in the nose. These receptors are responsible for detecting different fragrance notes and transmitting signals to the brain, where they are interpreted as scent. It is believed that the molecule binds to pheromone receptors and induces pheromone like effects. This has made the substance very popular among perfume enthusiasts.
In the perfume scene, the wildest myths, rumors and legends surround the fragrances Iso E Super and Hedion. They are considered kings of seduction and the belief in them is so great that Iso E Super is even sold in pure form (Escentric Molecules Molecule 01), or in perfumes the substance is highly concentrated (e.g. Rêves Sucrés by Pro Fragrantia). Iso E Super is even said to enhance its own body odor, which is supposed to have an additional attracting effect.
The pheromone effect on humans seems to be a very complicated matter, science is still totally in its infancy. Whether individual fragrances can have a pheromone effect is not yet proven, but also cannot be ruled out. We know from animals that pheromone signals are communicated by individual substances as well as by a combination of substances. Much remains written in the stars. The only thing that is clear is that many believe in the power of super molecules.
Also see the other interesting molecules: hedione, coumarin, vanillin, ambroxan